Back to engine parts Forward to pedals Body and chassis can be put together again. The bearing surfaces are occupied with grease tape. This prevents the two construction units from rubbing and so the cultivation of rust. Call for two or three mates, and lift the body at the chassis. Subsequently I spent beer and soft Prezel to celebrate the topping-out-ceremony - Camenbert and Champagne are also not to be despised, but this reunification took place in Hessen and not in france. Thanks to the help for Elmar (completeleft) and Klaus (left). Mathias and Wolfgang just came by for a beer. By the way, many people comming along kept an eye on my restoration garage and told me stories about their own experiences with ducks and other classical cars. Often I heard, 'Nobbi, you will never finish this car!'. Children were always inspired by the 'adventure playground'. The fastening spots (M7 screws) of body and chassis (on the curbside marked with arrows). The yellow arrows point to the fastening spots of the belt whips and the lap belts. These parts are also bolted with the chassis. With my duck number 2 still 2 points of screw connection at the rear edge of the boot had to be loosened (magenta arrow). The inspection openings in the cover plate of the chassis were wrongly set (the body covers them slightly). So I removed the screws (M4er countersunk head), which are covered by the body. Originally for the attachment of the chassis at the framework mounting nuts were used. With my restoration I wanted to use however stainless nuts instead. Since the attachment places behind the spring tubes are difficulty to reach, I built a special tool. It consists of a piece of metal band whith a 11mm-nut soldered. Here you can put a M7 nut and a grommet on. At particularly difficult places to reach you can fix the nuts with some plasticine additionally. Use a normal 11mm wrench to tighten the screws correctly. Back to engine parts Forward to pedals |